Matfer Bourgeat vs. de Buyer: Which Carbon Steel Pans Are Better?

Are you in the market for a carbon steel pan but can’t decide between the two highly-rated French brands, Matfer Bourgeat and de Buyer?

To find out which brand is better, I cooked with the 11.75-inch Matfer Bourgeat carbon steel pan and the de Buyer Mineral B, Mineral B Pro, and Blue Carbon Steel 12.5-inch pans for several months. 

I also put each pan through a series of controlled tests.

Durability Test: I dropped a five-pound weight from three feet high onto the edge of each pan.

Heat Distribution Test: I heated each pan on medium heat and measured the temperature at both the center and edge after 2 minutes. I also used a thermal camera to visualize how evenly the heat spread.

Heat Retention Test: I heated the pans to 400°F and measured how well they maintained their temperature after 5 minutes.

Handle Heat Test: I measured handle temperatures after boiling water for 10 minutes to see which stayed coolest.

Non-stick Test: I cooked eggs using identical amounts of oil and butter at the same temperature to compare their non-stick properties.

In this comparison of Matfer Bourgeat vs. de Buyer, you’ll find out how these brands stack up in performance, design, durability, price, and more. 

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Use the links below to navigate the comparison:

• Comparison Chart
• Carbon Steel Collections
• Cooking Surface
• Wall Height
• Weight and Thickness
• Handles
• Oven Safety
• Heating Properties
• Matfer Bourgeat Recall
• Overall Performance
• Bottom Line: Should You Buy Matfer Bourgeat or de Buyer?

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Comparison Chart

Frying Pan	Matfer Bourgeat	de Buyer Blue Carbon Steel	de Buyer Mineral B	de Buyer Mineral B Pro
Price	$$ (Amazon)	$$ (de Buyer’s site)	$$$ (de Buyer’s site)	$$$$ (de Buyer’s site)
Where It’s Made	France	France	France	France
Materials	Carbon steel	Carbon steel	Carbon steel	Carbon steel
Diameter Rim to Rim (in)	11.7	12.7	12.5	12.5
Diameter Flat Cooking Surface (in)	9	9.2	9	9
Ratio of Flat Cooking Surface to Full Diameter	76.92%	72.44%	72.00%	72.00%
Wall Height (in)	1.7	2.2	2	2
Handle Height (in)	5.4	7	5.8	5.1
Weight (lb)	4.9	4.2	6	6.9
Thickness (mm)	2.8	2	3.1	3.1
Handle Length (in)	10.2	10.0	9.3	10.0
Oven Safe Temp	Any Temp	450°F	400°F (10 mins only)	500°F
Induction Compatible	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Handle Temperature (°F after 10 min boiling water)	92	88	95	79
Probe Test: Center Temperature at 2 min (°F)	514	500	484	501
Probe Test: Edge Temperature at 2 min (°F)	438	421	393	423
Probe Test: Temperature Difference (center vs edge) (°F)	76	79	91	78
Thermal Camera Test: Center Temperature at 2 min (°F)	216	401	187	263
Thermal Camera Test: Edge Temperature at 2 min (°F)	207	326	151	247
Thermal Camera Test: Temperature Difference at 2 min (°F)	9	75	36	16
Heat Retention: Surface Temperature After 5 min (°F)	149	126	154	162

Carbon Steel Collections

Matfer Bourgeat keeps things simple with a single carbon steel collection that comes in nine different sizes, ranging from an 8.5-inch pan to a massive 17.75-inch pan.

All sizes feature the same industrial-style design, come unseasoned, and include a lifetime warranty. For this comparison, we’ll focus on their popular 11.75-inch size.

De Buyer, on the other hand, offers three different carbon steel lines, each available in five sizes (8″, 9.5″, 10.25″, 11″, and 12.5″):

Blue Carbon Steel: Their entry-level option features heat-treated blue steel that’s more corrosion-resistant.

Mineral B: Their mid-range pan with an epoxy-coated handle.

Mineral B Pro: Their premium offering has an upgraded stainless steel handle.

Each de Buyer collection targets different needs and budgets. The Blue Carbon Steel offers corrosion resistance at a lower price point, the Mineral B provides excellent heat retention but with some oven limitations, and the Mineral B Pro delivers professional-grade performance with no compromises – at a premium price. For this comparison, I’ll focus on their 12.5-inch sizes.

Cooking Surface

The de Buyer pans (12.5 inches) are larger than the Matfer Bourgeat (11.75 inches) when measured rim to rim. However, the more important measurement is the flat cooking surface – the area where food makes direct contact with the pan.

The surprising part is that Matfer Bourgeat’s flat cooking surface (9 inches) is nearly identical to de Buyer’s (9-9.2 inches). 

This is due to how each manufacturer designs their pan walls. Matfer Bourgeat uses steeper walls that maximize the flat cooking area, utilizing 77% of the pan’s total diameter as usable cooking surface. de Buyer opts for more gradually sloped walls, resulting in 72% of the total diameter being flat cooking space.

In practical terms, both pans offer virtually the same amount of usable cooking area. The main functional difference lies in the transition from cooking surface to walls.

Matfer Bourgeat’s steeper walls create a more defined corner where the cooking surface meets the sides. de Buyer’s more gradual slope makes it easier to slide a spatula under food near the edges of the pan.

Wall Height

The Matfer Bourgeat pan features 1.7-inch walls when measured from the countertop to the tip of the rim, while de Buyer’s pans are notably taller.

The Blue Carbon Steel pan has 2.2-inch walls and the Mineral B and Mineral B Pro feature 2-inch walls. This seemingly small difference has a significant impact on cooking performance.

Matfer Bourgeat’s lower walls promote better evaporation, making them excellent for searing meats and achieving a golden crust. This design works particularly well for dishes that benefit from moisture release, like pan-fried fish or crispy potatoes.

However, these lower walls provide less protection from oil splatter during high-heat cooking and have more limited capacity for liquid-based dishes.

de Buyer’s taller walls provide better protection from oil splatter and allow more room for tossing ingredients when sautéing. They can handle larger portions of vegetables that will cook down and are better suited for dishes with sauces or more liquid.

Weight and Thickness 

The weight and thickness of these pans vary significantly. The Matfer Bourgeat 11.75-inch pan weighs 4.9 pounds and has a thickness of 2.8mm. 

de Buyer Blue Carbon Steel is the lightest at 4.2 pounds with 2mm thickness, while the Mineral B (6 pounds) and Mineral B Pro (6.9 pounds) are considerably heavier with their 3.1mm thickness.

These weight differences become particularly noticeable when moving the pans around the kitchen or transferring them in and out of the oven. The Mineral B Pro’s 6.9 pounds can be challenging, especially when it is full of food. However, this extra weight provides excellent stability on the stovetop and superior heat retention.

Handle Design and Comfort

One of the biggest differences between Matfer Bourgeat and de Buyer carbon steel pans is their handle design, which dramatically affects both comfort and functionality. 

Both the Matfer Bourgeat and de Buyer Blue Carbon Steel feature welded handles, making them easier to clean with no rivets to maintain. The Mineral B has three rivets attaching its handle to the pan, while the Mineral B Pro uses a two-rivet design.

The Matfer Bourgeat, Blue Carbon Steel, and Mineral B all share a similar flat, angular handle design common in professional kitchens. While these traditional handles offer good grip and control, their thin, flat profile can become uncomfortable during extended use, particularly when the edges press into your palm.

The Mineral B Pro takes a significantly different approach with its hollow, rounded stainless steel handle. The curved design fits more naturally in the hand, while the hollow construction with heat-dispersing cutout keeps it cooler during use. 

In testing, the Mineral B Pro’s handle stayed at 79°F after 10 minutes of cooking, while the others ranged from 88-95°F. The downside is that this rounded design can get slippery when using oven mitts or washing it and your hand is soapy.

Handle length and height also vary. The Matfer Bourgeat has the longest handle at 10.2 inches, while both the Blue Carbon Steel and Mineral B Pro have 10-inch handles. The Mineral B is slightly shorter at 9.3 inches. 

The Blue Carbon Steel’s handle rises 7 inches from the base of the pan, requiring more oven and cabinet clearance than the other models – the Mineral B sits at 5.8 inches, the Matfer Bourgeat at 5.4 inches, and the Mineral B Pro at 5.1 inches from base to handle.

Oven Safety

While most carbon steel pans can handle high oven temperatures, the Mineral B has a strict limit of 400°F for no more than 10 minutes. This restriction exists because of the epoxy coating on its handle, which can degrade at higher temperatures or with prolonged heat exposure.

The other pans offer much more flexibility for oven use. The Matfer Bourgeat can handle any oven temperature, making it ideal for high-heat techniques like broiling or finishing steaks. The de Buyer Blue Carbon Steel is oven-safe up to 450°F with no time restrictions, and the Mineral B Pro can withstand temperatures up to 500°F for any duration.

These temperature limitations have real cooking implications. The Mineral B’s 10-minute restriction doesn’t allow you to finish thick cuts of meat in the oven, roast vegetables, or bake bread. Perhaps most importantly, the temperature limit prevents you from using many standard oven-based seasoning methods, which typically require temperatures of 450-500°F for extended periods.

Heating Properties

The thickness and construction of these pans directly affect how they heat, with notable differences in distribution and retention. Using a thermal camera and temperature probe, I tested how evenly each pan heats and how well it maintains temperature.

The Matfer Bourgeat showed remarkably even heating. After two minutes on medium heat, the temperature difference between the center and edge was just 9°F when measured with a thermal camera – the most consistent among all pans tested. This even heating helps prevent hot spots and provides more consistent cooking results.

The de Buyer pans showed more variation. Despite being the thinnest at 2mm, Blue Carbon Steel had the largest temperature difference at 75°F between the center and edge. The Mineral B and Mineral B Pro, both 3.1mm thick, performed better with differences of 36°F and 16°F respectively.

However, the thicker de Buyer pans excel when it comes to heat retention. After being heated to 400°F and removed from heat for 5 minutes, the Mineral B Pro maintained the highest temperature at 162°F, followed closely by the Mineral B at 154°F. 

The Matfer Bourgeat cooled to 149°F, while the thinner Blue Carbon Steel dropped to 126°F. This superior heat retention in the thicker pans is particularly beneficial when searing meats or maintaining consistent temperatures with larger portions of food.

Below are the full heat test results:

Frying Pan	Matfer Bourgeat	de Buyer Blue Carbon Steel	de Buyer Mineral B	de Buyer Mineral B Pro
Probe Test: Center Temperature at 2 min (°F)	514	500	484	501
Probe Test: Edge Temperature at 2 min (°F)	438	421	393	423
Probe Test: Temperature Difference (center vs edge) (°F)	76	79	91	78
Thermal Camera Test: Center Temperature at 2 min (°F)	216	401	187	263
Thermal Camera Test: Edge Temperature at 2 min (°F)	207	326	151	247
Thermal Camera Test: Temperature Difference at 2 min (°F)	9	75	36	16
Heat Retention: Surface Temperature After 5 min (°F)	149	126	154	162

Overall Performance

After cooking dozens of meals in each of these pans over several months, one thing becomes clear: both Matfer Bourgeat and de Buyer produce excellent carbon steel cookware that performs as advertised. 

All four pans develop a superb non-stick surface when properly seasoned – in my controlled egg tests, every model performed great with minimal sticking.

They are all great at high-heat cooking tasks like searing steaks, and their versatility allows them to handle everything from delicate fish to stir-fries.

While my controlled tests revealed differences in heat distribution and retention, these variations are subtle in real-world cooking. 

You’re much more likely to notice the practical differences in daily use: the weight difference between the lightweight Blue Carbon Steel (4.2 pounds) and the hefty Mineral B Pro (6.9 pounds), the superior comfort of the Mineral B Pro’s rounded handle compared to the traditional flat handles of the other models, and the increased stovetop splatter from Matfer Bourgeat’s lower walls.

Durability

To test the structural integrity of these pans, I conducted a controlled durability test by dropping a five-pound weight from a height of three feet onto the rim of each pan. This test aimed to simulate the impact that might occur if a pan was dropped or a heavy object fell on it.

All four pans performed similarly in this test. Each sustained a small nick in the rim where the weight made contact, but none showed any structural damage, warping, or denting to the cooking surface or walls.

This was exactly what I was testing for – while minor cosmetic damage is acceptable, any warping or structural changes would significantly impact a pan’s performance.

This test confirmed what you’d expect from carbon steel cookware: these pans are incredibly durable and can withstand significant impacts without compromising their functionality. 

Matfer Bourgeat Recall

One important factor to consider when comparing these pans is an ongoing safety investigation in France. 

The Matfer Bourgeat carbon steel pan has been recalled in France after authorities found the pan released excessive levels of arsenic, chromium, and iron during a test where they cooked highly acidic solutions for 2 hours – a method that Matfer Bourgeat argues violates the pan’s explicit usage instructions.

Matfer Bourgeat is currently appealing this decision, pointing out that independent laboratory testing shows their pans contain well below the permitted levels of these substances when used as directed. According to their testing, both seasoned and unseasoned pans contain less than 0.002 mg/kg of chromium (against a limit of 0.025 mg/kg), less than 0.002 mg/kg of arsenic (against a limit of 0.002 mg/kg), and less than 0.25 mg/kg of iron (against a limit of 40 mg/kg).

While all carbon steel pans should avoid prolonged exposure to acidic foods, this situation highlights the importance of following manufacturer guidelines. There have been no reported health issues related to the pan’s use, and the product continues to be sold in the United States.

It’s worth noting that none of de Buyer’s pans have faced any recall issues, though it’s unclear whether authorities conducted the same testing on de Buyer products.

Bottom Line: Should You Buy Matfer Bourgeat or de Buyer Carbon Steel Pans?

After months of testing and dozens of meals cooked in each pan, here’s how to choose the right one for your kitchen:

de Buyer Mineral B Pro is my top recommendation for serious cooks who don’t mind a heavier pan. Its superior heat retention makes it excellent for searing and high-heat cooking, while its comfortable rounded handle stays cool during use. Yes, it’s expensive and heavy (6.9 pounds), but it’s worth spending more for a pan that will last forever.

de Buyer Blue Carbon Steel is my pick if you want a lighter, more affordable option. At 4.2 pounds, it’s significantly easier to handle than the Mineral B Pro, and its heat-treated surface provides good corrosion resistance. While it doesn’t retain heat quite as well as the thicker pans, it still performs excellent for most cooking tasks.

Despite its excellent cooking performance, I don’t recommend the de Buyer Mineral B. The epoxy-coated handle’s 400°F/10-minute oven limitation is too restrictive for a pan at this price point, especially when the alternatives offer full oven compatibility.

While the Matfer Bourgeat performs well in testing, I can’t currently recommend it due to the ongoing recall situation in France. Until the safety concerns are fully resolved, the de Buyer Blue Carbon Steel offers similar performance at a similar price point without these uncertainties.

Use the links below to compare current prices and read more reviews:

• De Buyer Blue Carbon Steel (deBuyer-USA.com)
• De Buyer Mineral B (deBuyer-USA.com)
• De Buyer Mineral B Pro (deBuyer-USA.com)
• Matfer Bourgeat (Amazon)